We -- as many manufacturers of OEM PCBs do -- use male pin headers for low-voltage connections on our PCBs. With the escape rooms business going crazy and customers ordering Prop-1s, Prop-2s, and HC-8+s as fast as we can build them, the question about connecting to headers comes up.
You can, of course, build your own header sockets but this takes a special tool and a bit of practice. No worries, with a couple simple purchases from Amazon you can connect your controller to the outside word.
Pre-made F-to-F connector wires:
-- http://www.amazon.com/Kalevel%C2%AE-Multicolored-Breadboard-Jumper-Female/dp/B00ZCOGS8W
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51zTAU6m%2BwL.jpg)
Shells/Pins/Sockets kit
-- http://www.amazon.com/Hilitchi-2-54mm-Headers-Connector-Housing/dp/B014YTPFT8
(http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/71Zb3tHvpOL._SL1001_.jpg)
I do a lot of work with these kinds of connectors so I find having the kits easier than trying to purchase individual sizes.
By using pre-fabricated wires you don't have to worry about good connections. While you can use 1-pin sockets, I prefer to change these for what I'm using. For example, I just connected an I2C 7-segment display to an HC-8+; this takes four wires (ground, SCL, SDA, +5v). I took four wires from the kit and selected appropriate colors: black for ground, white for SCL, gray for SDA, and red for 5v. Using a small pin I removed the single-pin shells from one end of each wire, and then clicked them into a 4-pin shel that is part of teh Hilatchi kit. Now I can easily disconnect my I2C devices from the HC-8+ when I want to update the program (in EEPROM).
The shells kit includes 8-pin shells which are good for the 5v inputs and the option port.
BTW... for those wondering about the wiring on the option port, it goes like this (left to right was you're looking at the board)
5v 3.3v BR A1 A0 SM Gnd Gnd
The pins BR..SM are pulled-up through 10K and connect directly to the Propeller, so be careful. Note, too, that all option switches must be off to use the option pins for an external device. I tend to hook Bluetooth radios to the option port as the pull-ups keep the radio pins in a known state when not transmitting or receiving.
Another great source for wires is www.pololu.com. The have wires with pre-crimped ends that are not in a housing, and they come in a large variety of colors and lengths. This lets you easily configure custom cables to attach to one of our controllers.
https://www.pololu.com/category/71/wires-with-pre-crimped-terminals (https://www.pololu.com/category/71/wires-with-pre-crimped-terminals)
These shells are especially useful with our controllers:
-- https://www.pololu.com/product/1902
-- https://www.pololu.com/product/1903
-- https://www.pololu.com/product/1907
Great post Jon.
I like to go to Microcenter for some of my electronic stuff and noticed they sell the same Pre-made F-to-F connector wires
http://www.microcenter.com/product/443175/200_mm_40_Pin_Plug_Leads_to_Plug_Leads_Ribbon_Cable (http://www.microcenter.com/product/443175/200_mm_40_Pin_Plug_Leads_to_Plug_Leads_Ribbon_Cable)
in you first post.
Here's another idem for the HC-8 I2C header
http://www.microcenter.com/product/447034/8_4-Pin_-12C_Connector_Cable (http://www.microcenter.com/product/447034/8_4-Pin_-12C_Connector_Cable)